DESIGNTEK OFFERS NEW SPORTS EXHAUST TO BOOST THE POWER OF THE GT3

Porsche 996 GT3 owners can now have access to an extra +37bhp and a substantial weight reduction thanks to DesignTek’s latest sports exhaust package – the ‘Predator’ performance system – suitable for the 996 GT3 Mk1 and 2.
The system has been manufactured with high flow 60mm T304 stainless steel tubing and is assembled with T316 Lsi welding joints. The materials chosen result in the complete system being 25kg lighter than the original factory-fitted package, representing a substantial weight saving.
Each bend section in the system is produced using automated CNC plasma cutting equipment and mandrel bending machinery to give the ultimate quality finish, optimum flow and power enhancement. The deep, sporty tone of the exhaust complements the performance and has been sound tested to 97db to satisfy track day noise limits.
The full system includes sports mufflers, equal length headers, 200 cell tri-metal sports cats and oval end pipes.

Fits
Porsche 996 GT3 MKI
Porsche 996 GT3 MKII

To View this product Click Here

Karl

Many thanks to you and your team for the engine re-map last week – the results are really quite impressive.

Thought I would give you some feedback on performance – sadly the journey home was hampered by the Friday motorway traffic so took a little time to plant the foot on the floor. (65 miles in fact!). However, once there was a clear road ahead I got to the business of experimenting through the rev range.

First thing you notice is a more responsive throttle, particularly above 3,000 rpm which in concert with the K&N induction unit (already fitted) makes for some lively entertainment – and incredible noise.

Generally however, and when not at wide open throttle, the drive is refined and civilised and whether it was variable traffic keeping the speed down, the fuel consumption did seem to be more favourable than previously.

But the best result has to be the price, this much performance, for this much money – it’s a no brainer!

Would recommend fitting with K&N unit and DT exhaust, but as a standalone proposition it speaks for itself.

All the very best.

Vince

DesignTek performance tuning software built in conjunction with Viezu Technologies.

Power Tuning is essential for those drivers who feel there vehicle is a not living up to its potential. By increasing the power of your vehicle you are providing yourself with a car that is safer for overtaking, more pleasurable to drive and puts the smile back on your face – without the outlay for a new vehicle.

DesignTek & Viezu Technologies develop tuning programmes in laboratory conditions on real vehicles, where dynamometer and emissions readings allow us to verify our figures. We then test the results of our work on the roads in real life conditions for many hundreds of miles – nothing is left to chance.

More Power, Greater torque.
Enhanced shaper throttle response.
Smoother progressive delivery of power.
Reliable and safe.
Fuel saving and at a price you can afford.

Power & fuel savings

ECU Tuning For Porsche 986 2.5L 1997-99 Fuel Save 6% (+13Bhp / +18Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche 986 2.7L Fuel Save 6% (+14Bhp / +19Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche 986 3.2L S Fuel Save 6% (+19Bhp / +31Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche 987 2.7L Fuel Save 6% (+17Bhp / +22Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche 987 3.2L S Fuel Save 6% (+19Bhp / +31Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche 987 3.4L S Fuel Save 6% (+20Bhp / +32Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche 996 3.4L Fuel Save 6% (+19Bhp / +31Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche 996 3.6L Fuel Save 6% (+19Bhp / +28Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche 996 GT3 Fuel Save 6% (+18Bhp / +27Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche 996TT 2000>> Fuel Save 4% (+61Bhp / +90Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche 997 3.6L Fuel Save 6% (+19Bhp / +28Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche 997 3.8L Fuel Save 6% (+19Bhp / +28Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche 997 GT3 Fuel Save 6% (+18Bhp / +28Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche 997TT – to be confirmed

ECU Tuning For Porsche CAYENNE 955 S V8 4.5L Fuel Save 6% (+19Bhp / +28Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche CAYENNE 955 V6 3.2L Fuel Save 6% (+19Bhp / +31Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche CAYENNE 955 V8 4.5L TURBO Fuel Save 4% (+62Bhp / +95Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche CAYENNE 955 V8 4.5L TURBO S Fuel Save 4% (+63Bhp / +98Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche CAYENNE 957 S FSi 3.6L Fuel Save 6% (+19Bhp / +28Nm Torque Gain)

ECU Tuning For Porsche CAYMAN 3.4L S Fuel Save 6% (+19Bhp / +31Nm Torque Gain)

To book in your car for a performance re-map call 0208 500 8811.

DesignTek Remap
Vehicle: 996 Turbo 3.6L
Fuel Saving on eco 4%
Power Increase +61Bhp
Torque Increase + 95Nm

Hi Karl

WOW!! power upgrade you did for me today on the 996 turbo, and 24.5mpg compared to 21.5 on a 70 mile stretch from Cambridge. Unbeleiveable!

What could you offer me on price on my ‘05 997 3.8 C2S..? It’s a 480 mile round trip from Merseyside, and probably £100 in fuel. Could you quote me for a re-map and quote me power gains to include a K&N Filter.

Many thanks

Steve

We offer a wide range of products which we can fit at our London based service centre and body shop. Our specialist team are familiar with fitting complicated products, conversions, spoilers and accessories. We have the capabilities to modify, adjust and make electrical connections as well as painting and fitting.It is not always possible for every customer to bring their vehicle to us for the products to be fitted. We supply parts on a national and international basis to customers who are looking to under take a particular job at their own nominated garage.

If you are looking to purchase parts, spoilers or conversion parts you may need to take into consideration following details:

1. Have a good auto electrician who can rewire or make an adequate loom between the vehicle and any new electrical parts. Wiring looms are normally not provided with the products so your auto electrician will need to make the connection to the new product using some of the existing wiring and fittings on the vehicle.

2. If your conversion requires exhaust tail pipes or other exhaust products your mechanic might need to modify or adjust by means of welding, please make sure your fitting shop have the capabilities to make adjustments. In some cases exhaust sensors may need to changed or modified.

3. If your vehicle is fitted with parking sensor the wiring looms and sensor holders should be retained from your vehicle and refitted into the new product, again slight adjustment may needed.

4. Body panel, grills and air ducts should be retained from your vehicle as they might need to be refitted to the new product, again slight adjustment may be needed.

5. Conversion kits and other parts normally do not come with fitting instructions it is assumed that the person fitting the products has body shop or mechanical experience.

6. Please check that the product you are purchasing or fitting does not invalidate your vehicles warranty and or complies with your countries local vehicle authority.

We recommend conversions and parts are only fitted by professionals that have the capabilities to carry out the work required. We do not recommend that you undertake any work on your vehicle if you do not have any body shop or mechanical training and experience.

Fitting parts to your vehicle is not a DIY job.

DesignTek performance tuning software built in conjunctions with Viezu Technologies.

- More power
- Greater Torque
- Enhanced, sharper throttle response
- Smoother, more progressive delivery of power
- Reliable and safe

Power Tuning is essential for those drivers who feel there vehicle is a not living up to its potential. By increasing the power of your vehicle you are providing yourself with a car that is safer for overtaking, more pleasurable to drive and puts the smile back on your face – without the outlay for a new vehicle.

DesignTek & Viezu Technologies develop tuning programmes in laboratory conditions on real vehicles, where dynamometer and emissions readings allow us to verify our figures. We then test the results of our work on the roads in real life conditions for many hundreds of miles – nothing is left to chance.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why Choose DesignTek & Viezu Technologies ?

DesignTek is not just “another tuning outfit”: our tuning services have been developed over the last 12 years and are some of the very best available in the world today.

DesignTek gives you the choice of the level of tune you want. Be it performance or economy tuning, we have the ability to reach your exact requirements. If you can’t decide between a multitude of options, then fear not, as we also have an option that allows you to have multiple maps available for your car at the press of a button – our V-Switch device.

Will re-mapping invalidate my car’s warranty?

The way DesignTek files reprogramme a vehicle is completely undetectable. All codes and diagnostics that a dealer may read will remain exactly the same. We say it with confidence because of the rigorous testing regime all files go through, and we even give a 24 month software warranty to you.
But be warned – not all tuning companies can say this.

Can the car be put back to its standard BHP?

Of course it can and most DesignTek dealers will offer this service free of charge. But we’ll be very suprised if that’s what you want after taking control of your vehicle’s performance. Should you lose your tuning files due to dealer actions or parts failure your dealer will be happy to re-install the map onto your car free of charge for as long as you own the vehicle.

Should I tell my insurance company?

Whilst the upgrade is undetectable, the responsible answer to this question has to be “yes”, your insurance company should be notified. However, many insurance companies do not penalise you for upgrades of this nature, particularly if you’re tuning for increased economy. Adrian Flux is one such company.

Will my fuel consumption go up after an upgrade?

No, in fact quite the opposite. Even on a performance tune, if you continue to drive the car in the same way as you did before the upgrade, your fuel consumption will probably improve. Of course if you have a track map installed on the car and you are driving the car under the conditions with which a track map is intended you’re likely to find a slightly reduced mpg figure. Economy tuning can have a dramatic effect on fuel consumption, with considerable improvements being achieved along with huge money savings on fuel.

Will the life span of my engine be reduced?

No, not at all if you use a DesignTek dealer. Sadly some engines can be over tuned, “stressing” the engine, transmission, cooling systems, etc, and reducing the life span and reliability of the car. This is why it’s so important to choose the best We take great care to ensure that all of our modifications have no detrimental effect on your car. In a lot of cases the economy tune actually helps to extend the life of components such as the clutch and gearbox by making the delivery of the power far less aggressive and smoothing the overall drive of the vehicle.

Are plug and play re-maps and files sold on E-bay any good?

There are a number of basic power upgrades available in a plug and play format or are downloadable from the web. Whilst some of these items can offer slight increases in power, they operate by merely adjusting a specified signal within the ECU by a set tolerance. It’s impossible to compare these inferior upgrades with a full rolling road re-map which measures and adjusts hundreds of signals and data files within the ECU.

We advise that these generic files and unsupported devices for sale on the web should be avoided at all cost. We’ve seen too many custoemrs come to us after a bad experience – and there was no one else to turn to either. We’re always happy to advise on your tuning needs.

What is Isofix ?ISOFIX is the latest and safest system for fitting your car seat. ISOFIX stands for “International Standards Organisation’s FIX.”

Isofix seats enable you to fit your car seat without using a seat belt. Instead it uses Isofix points, which many new cars are now constructed with. You may not realise you have this ingenious system in your car so check with your dealer or manufacturer. It is also possible to have the points fitted into your car. You would need to discuss this with your dealer or a qualified mechanic. The Isofix points are integral to your car’s frame and once the seat is ‘clicked’ onto these points the car seat becomes locked to the car’s frame. The points can be found near the bottom of the back part of the passenger seats, they will look like two slits in the material.

To fit an Isofix seat ensure that you click the seat onto the Isofix points by ‘plugging’ it into the two slits until you here it ‘click’ onto both sides.

Isofix seats were found to be the safest on the market in recent independent testing. It goes without saying that this is therefore the most desirable car seat purchase you can make.

An engine oil’s job is primarily to stop all the metal surfaces in your engine from grinding together and tearing themselves apart from friction whilst transferring heat away from the combustion cycle. Engine oil must also be able to hold all the nasty by-products of combustion, such as silica (silicon oxide) and acids in suspension. It cleans the engine of these chemicals and build-ups, and keeps the moving parts coated in oil. Finally, engine oil minimises the exposure to oxygen and thus oxidation at higher temperatures. It does all of these things under tremendous heat and pressure.

How much do you value the engine in your car?
Think about it, because the life of your engine depends in no small part on the quality of the oil you put in it – oil is the lifeblood of your car’s engine. From the mid 80’s for 8 or 9 years there was a veritable revolution in car engine oil. All oils were no longer the same thanks to the popularity of hot hatches, 16-valve engines and turbos as the tuner scene started to rise. Combined with the devastating problems of black death, the days of one oil catering for everyone were over.
Take Castrol for example. They led the field for years with GTX. This was surpassed a few years back by semi-synthetic and fully synthetic oils, including GTX2 and GTX3 Lightec. Now, that’s been surpassed by Formula SLX which can cost upwards of £50 for 5 litres. And most recently, Castrol GTX Magnatec which is muscling in on the hitherto separate world of friction reducers

What was Black Death?
Black Death first appeared in the early 80’s when a horrible sticky black substance was found to be the cause of many engine seizures in Europe. Faster roads, higher under-hood temperatures, tighter engineering tolerances and overworked engine oils turned out to be contributors to the problem. The oils just couldn’t handle it and changed their chemical makeup under pressure into a sort of tar-like glue. This blocked all the oil channels in the engines, starved them of lubrication and caused them to seize. I don’t recommend this but you can reproduce the effect with a frying pan, cooking oil and a blowtorch. The cooking oil will heat up far quicker than it’s designed to and will turn to a sticky black tar in your pan. Either that or it will set fire to your kitchen, which is why I said “don’t do this”.
Anyway, burning kitchens aside, Black Death was the catalyst for the production of newer higher quality oils, many of them man-made rather than mineral-based.

Black death for the 21st century
There’s a snappy new moniker for Black Death now, and it’s called sludge. The cause is the same as Black Death and it seems to be regardless of maintenance or mileage. The chemical compounds in engine oils break down over time due to prolonged exposure to high temperatures and poor maintenance habits. When the oil oxidises, the additives separate from the oil and begin to chemically break down and solidify, leading to the baked-on oil deposits turning gelatinous, and that nasty compound is what is lovingly referred to nowadays as sludge. It’s like black yoghurt. What doesn’t help is that modern engines, due to packaging, have smaller sumps than in the “good old days” and so hold less oil. This means that the oil that is present in the engine can’t hold as much crap (for want of a better word) and can lead to earlier chemical breakdown.
The most common factor in sludge buildup is mineral oils combined with a lack of maintenance by the car owner combined with harsh driving conditions. But this isn’t true in all cases. For some reason, a 2005 Consumer Reports article discovered that some engines from Audi, Chrysler, Saab, Toyota, and Volkswagen appear prone to sludge almost no matter how often the oil is changed.

Mineral or synthetic?
Mineral oils are based on oil that comes from dear old Mother Earth which has been refined. Synthetic oils are entirely concocted by chemists wearing white lab coats in oil company laboratories. For more info, see the section on synthetics further down the page. The only other type is semi-synthetic, sometimes called premium, which is a blend of the two. It is safe to mix the different types, but it’s wiser to switch completely to a new type rather than mixing.

Synthetics
Despite their name, most synthetic derived motor oils (ie Mobil 1, Castrol Formula RS etc ) are actually derived from mineral oils – they are mostly Polyalphaolifins and these come from the purest part of the mineral oil refraction process, the gas. PAO oils will mix with normal mineral oils which means Joe public can add synthetic to his mineral, or mineral to his synthetic without his car engine seizing up (although I’ve heard Mobil 1 is actually made by reformulating ethanol).
The most stable bases are polyol-ester. When I say ’stable’ I mean ‘less likely to react adversely with other compounds.’ Synthetic oil bases tend not to contain reactive carbon atoms for this reason. Reactive carbon has a tendency to combine with oxygen creating an acid. As you can imagine, in an oil, this would be A Bad Thing. So think of synthetic oils as custom-built oils. They’re designed to do the job efficiently but without any of the excess baggage that can accompany mineral based oils.

 A quick guide to the different grades of oil.

Viscosity and Viscosity Index (VI).
The proper viscosity is the single most important criteria of a lubricating oil. The basic performance of machinery is based on the viscosity of the lubricant. Viscosity is, if you like, the resistance to the flowability of the oil. The thicker an oil, the higher its viscosity. The chart on the right shows a rough guide to ambient temperatures vs oil viscosity performance in both multigrade (top half) and single grade (lower half) oils.
Multigrade oils work by having a polymer added to a light base oil which prevents the oil from thinning too much as it warms up. At low temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as it’s low number (W number) indicates. As the oil heats up, the polymers unwind into long chains which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100°C, the oil has thinned only as much as it’s higher rating. Think of it like this: a 10W30 oil is a 10-weight oil that will not thin more than a 30-weight oil when it gets hot.
The viscosity index of a lubricant is an empirical formula that allows the change in viscosity in the presence of heat to be calculated. This tells the user how much the oil will thin when it is subjected to heat. The higher the viscosity index, the less an oil will thin at a specified temperature. Multi-viscosity motor oils will have a viscosity index well over 100, while single viscosity motor oils and most industrial oils will have a VI of about 100 or less.

If you are putting your Porsche away for some of the winter these are the things we recommend…….

Clean it inside and out.
The cleaner the car is when you put it away, the better it will look every time you check in on it. I usually do a complete wash and a put a quick coat of wax on just for that added protection. Don’t forget the wheels. The last thing you want to do is leave brake dust on your rims to sit and eat at the finish for the winter.

Fill it up.
Make sure you have as full a tank as possible. I make it a point to gas up at the station closest to my garage right before I put away my car. With a full tank you help to keep out any unwanted condensation or water build up that can happen when a car sits all winter long.

Tyre Pressures.
If you’re not going to put your car up on axle / jack-stand (which we don’t recommend), the next best thing is to get a good amount of tire pressure in each tire. Make sure you don’t over inflate past the manufacturers recommend capacity, but you should go over the recommend driving pressure. In general, tires can lose 1 psi per month under normal conditions and an addition 1 psi per ever 10 degree (Fahrenheit) drop in temp. As a general rule of thumb, put 50lbs of pressure in each tire. You have to remember to do this when the tires are cold or you won’t get an accurate reading and you may end up with flat spots. There is nothing worse then taking your Porsche out for the first time in the spring and having damaged tires due to flat spots from storage. Properly inflated tires will avoid this.

Charger it.
Some people like to take the battery out of their cars or at least disconnect them. We recommend some kind of Charger / Battery Maintainer to make sure my battery is always fresh and I’m ready to go. It would be a shame to get a nice spring day, go to start the car and find you have a dead battery (not to mention, it can get expensive replacing your battery every year). Let’s face it, the electronics in a modern Porsche tend to eat up a battery pretty easily if the car isn’t used frequently. So, either disconnect it or put on some type of Charger / Battery Maintainer . What you definitely want to avoid is starting your Porsche and letting it “warm-up” or run to charge the battery. This simply allows condensation to develop or collect in your motor (you won’t get it hot enough to burn it off) and can possibly cause long-term damage. Look in your manual you will see this is not recommended. Remember, if you do decide to disconnect the battery, you will need to have your radio code handy in the spring to get your system functioning again.

Cover it.
Even if your car is in a nice heated garage, securely tucked away with the key hidden, I’ve always thought it a good idea to keep my cars covered. This way, you don’t have to worry about anyone or anything bumping into or crawling on or over you nice paint. We recommend to use a thick, padded, indoor Porsche car cover or an outdoor car cover, If you do use a cover make sure it covers your exhaust pipes. If you don’t use a cover, you might want to think of covering your pipes with something (those big 16 oz keg cups work great). The idea behind this is to keep out any rodents that might want to try and build a nest for the winter. You laugh, but I’ve seen it happen to a customer’s car and it can be very frustrating and expensive.

Seal It.
We recommend you don’t storage your vehicle if the weather strips and rubber seals are perished or leaking in water, change the main seals before your put your car away, this will save your interior and carpets

DRIVE IT
This should probably be up at the very top, but I don’t want you to forget. The most important thing you can do prior to putting your Porsche away is to drive it and enjoy as you may not have her back on the road for another few months.