We offer a wide range of products which we can fit at our London based service centre and body shop. Our specialist team are familiar with fitting complicated products, conversions, spoilers and accessories. We have the capabilities to modify, adjust and make electrical connections as well as painting and fitting.It is not always possible for every customer to bring their vehicle to us for the products to be fitted. We supply parts on a national and international basis to customers who are looking to under take a particular job at their own nominated garage.

If you are looking to purchase parts, spoilers or conversion parts you may need to take into consideration following details:

1. Have a good auto electrician who can rewire or make an adequate loom between the vehicle and any new electrical parts. Wiring looms are normally not provided with the products so your auto electrician will need to make the connection to the new product using some of the existing wiring and fittings on the vehicle.

2. If your conversion requires exhaust tail pipes or other exhaust products your mechanic might need to modify or adjust by means of welding, please make sure your fitting shop have the capabilities to make adjustments. In some cases exhaust sensors may need to changed or modified.

3. If your vehicle is fitted with parking sensor the wiring looms and sensor holders should be retained from your vehicle and refitted into the new product, again slight adjustment may needed.

4. Body panel, grills and air ducts should be retained from your vehicle as they might need to be refitted to the new product, again slight adjustment may be needed.

5. Conversion kits and other parts normally do not come with fitting instructions it is assumed that the person fitting the products has body shop or mechanical experience.

6. Please check that the product you are purchasing or fitting does not invalidate your vehicles warranty and or complies with your countries local vehicle authority.

We recommend conversions and parts are only fitted by professionals that have the capabilities to carry out the work required. We do not recommend that you undertake any work on your vehicle if you do not have any body shop or mechanical training and experience.

Fitting parts to your vehicle is not a DIY job.

What is Isofix ?ISOFIX is the latest and safest system for fitting your car seat. ISOFIX stands for “International Standards Organisation’s FIX.”

Isofix seats enable you to fit your car seat without using a seat belt. Instead it uses Isofix points, which many new cars are now constructed with. You may not realise you have this ingenious system in your car so check with your dealer or manufacturer. It is also possible to have the points fitted into your car. You would need to discuss this with your dealer or a qualified mechanic. The Isofix points are integral to your car’s frame and once the seat is ‘clicked’ onto these points the car seat becomes locked to the car’s frame. The points can be found near the bottom of the back part of the passenger seats, they will look like two slits in the material.

To fit an Isofix seat ensure that you click the seat onto the Isofix points by ‘plugging’ it into the two slits until you here it ‘click’ onto both sides.

Isofix seats were found to be the safest on the market in recent independent testing. It goes without saying that this is therefore the most desirable car seat purchase you can make.

An engine oil’s job is primarily to stop all the metal surfaces in your engine from grinding together and tearing themselves apart from friction whilst transferring heat away from the combustion cycle. Engine oil must also be able to hold all the nasty by-products of combustion, such as silica (silicon oxide) and acids in suspension. It cleans the engine of these chemicals and build-ups, and keeps the moving parts coated in oil. Finally, engine oil minimises the exposure to oxygen and thus oxidation at higher temperatures. It does all of these things under tremendous heat and pressure.

How much do you value the engine in your car?
Think about it, because the life of your engine depends in no small part on the quality of the oil you put in it – oil is the lifeblood of your car’s engine. From the mid 80’s for 8 or 9 years there was a veritable revolution in car engine oil. All oils were no longer the same thanks to the popularity of hot hatches, 16-valve engines and turbos as the tuner scene started to rise. Combined with the devastating problems of black death, the days of one oil catering for everyone were over.
Take Castrol for example. They led the field for years with GTX. This was surpassed a few years back by semi-synthetic and fully synthetic oils, including GTX2 and GTX3 Lightec. Now, that’s been surpassed by Formula SLX which can cost upwards of £50 for 5 litres. And most recently, Castrol GTX Magnatec which is muscling in on the hitherto separate world of friction reducers

What was Black Death?
Black Death first appeared in the early 80’s when a horrible sticky black substance was found to be the cause of many engine seizures in Europe. Faster roads, higher under-hood temperatures, tighter engineering tolerances and overworked engine oils turned out to be contributors to the problem. The oils just couldn’t handle it and changed their chemical makeup under pressure into a sort of tar-like glue. This blocked all the oil channels in the engines, starved them of lubrication and caused them to seize. I don’t recommend this but you can reproduce the effect with a frying pan, cooking oil and a blowtorch. The cooking oil will heat up far quicker than it’s designed to and will turn to a sticky black tar in your pan. Either that or it will set fire to your kitchen, which is why I said “don’t do this”.
Anyway, burning kitchens aside, Black Death was the catalyst for the production of newer higher quality oils, many of them man-made rather than mineral-based.

Black death for the 21st century
There’s a snappy new moniker for Black Death now, and it’s called sludge. The cause is the same as Black Death and it seems to be regardless of maintenance or mileage. The chemical compounds in engine oils break down over time due to prolonged exposure to high temperatures and poor maintenance habits. When the oil oxidises, the additives separate from the oil and begin to chemically break down and solidify, leading to the baked-on oil deposits turning gelatinous, and that nasty compound is what is lovingly referred to nowadays as sludge. It’s like black yoghurt. What doesn’t help is that modern engines, due to packaging, have smaller sumps than in the “good old days” and so hold less oil. This means that the oil that is present in the engine can’t hold as much crap (for want of a better word) and can lead to earlier chemical breakdown.
The most common factor in sludge buildup is mineral oils combined with a lack of maintenance by the car owner combined with harsh driving conditions. But this isn’t true in all cases. For some reason, a 2005 Consumer Reports article discovered that some engines from Audi, Chrysler, Saab, Toyota, and Volkswagen appear prone to sludge almost no matter how often the oil is changed.

Mineral or synthetic?
Mineral oils are based on oil that comes from dear old Mother Earth which has been refined. Synthetic oils are entirely concocted by chemists wearing white lab coats in oil company laboratories. For more info, see the section on synthetics further down the page. The only other type is semi-synthetic, sometimes called premium, which is a blend of the two. It is safe to mix the different types, but it’s wiser to switch completely to a new type rather than mixing.

Synthetics
Despite their name, most synthetic derived motor oils (ie Mobil 1, Castrol Formula RS etc ) are actually derived from mineral oils – they are mostly Polyalphaolifins and these come from the purest part of the mineral oil refraction process, the gas. PAO oils will mix with normal mineral oils which means Joe public can add synthetic to his mineral, or mineral to his synthetic without his car engine seizing up (although I’ve heard Mobil 1 is actually made by reformulating ethanol).
The most stable bases are polyol-ester. When I say ’stable’ I mean ‘less likely to react adversely with other compounds.’ Synthetic oil bases tend not to contain reactive carbon atoms for this reason. Reactive carbon has a tendency to combine with oxygen creating an acid. As you can imagine, in an oil, this would be A Bad Thing. So think of synthetic oils as custom-built oils. They’re designed to do the job efficiently but without any of the excess baggage that can accompany mineral based oils.

 A quick guide to the different grades of oil.

Viscosity and Viscosity Index (VI).
The proper viscosity is the single most important criteria of a lubricating oil. The basic performance of machinery is based on the viscosity of the lubricant. Viscosity is, if you like, the resistance to the flowability of the oil. The thicker an oil, the higher its viscosity. The chart on the right shows a rough guide to ambient temperatures vs oil viscosity performance in both multigrade (top half) and single grade (lower half) oils.
Multigrade oils work by having a polymer added to a light base oil which prevents the oil from thinning too much as it warms up. At low temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as it’s low number (W number) indicates. As the oil heats up, the polymers unwind into long chains which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100°C, the oil has thinned only as much as it’s higher rating. Think of it like this: a 10W30 oil is a 10-weight oil that will not thin more than a 30-weight oil when it gets hot.
The viscosity index of a lubricant is an empirical formula that allows the change in viscosity in the presence of heat to be calculated. This tells the user how much the oil will thin when it is subjected to heat. The higher the viscosity index, the less an oil will thin at a specified temperature. Multi-viscosity motor oils will have a viscosity index well over 100, while single viscosity motor oils and most industrial oils will have a VI of about 100 or less.

If you are putting your Porsche away for some of the winter these are the things we recommend…….

Clean it inside and out.
The cleaner the car is when you put it away, the better it will look every time you check in on it. I usually do a complete wash and a put a quick coat of wax on just for that added protection. Don’t forget the wheels. The last thing you want to do is leave brake dust on your rims to sit and eat at the finish for the winter.

Fill it up.
Make sure you have as full a tank as possible. I make it a point to gas up at the station closest to my garage right before I put away my car. With a full tank you help to keep out any unwanted condensation or water build up that can happen when a car sits all winter long.

Tyre Pressures.
If you’re not going to put your car up on axle / jack-stand (which we don’t recommend), the next best thing is to get a good amount of tire pressure in each tire. Make sure you don’t over inflate past the manufacturers recommend capacity, but you should go over the recommend driving pressure. In general, tires can lose 1 psi per month under normal conditions and an addition 1 psi per ever 10 degree (Fahrenheit) drop in temp. As a general rule of thumb, put 50lbs of pressure in each tire. You have to remember to do this when the tires are cold or you won’t get an accurate reading and you may end up with flat spots. There is nothing worse then taking your Porsche out for the first time in the spring and having damaged tires due to flat spots from storage. Properly inflated tires will avoid this.

Charger it.
Some people like to take the battery out of their cars or at least disconnect them. We recommend some kind of Charger / Battery Maintainer to make sure my battery is always fresh and I’m ready to go. It would be a shame to get a nice spring day, go to start the car and find you have a dead battery (not to mention, it can get expensive replacing your battery every year). Let’s face it, the electronics in a modern Porsche tend to eat up a battery pretty easily if the car isn’t used frequently. So, either disconnect it or put on some type of Charger / Battery Maintainer . What you definitely want to avoid is starting your Porsche and letting it “warm-up” or run to charge the battery. This simply allows condensation to develop or collect in your motor (you won’t get it hot enough to burn it off) and can possibly cause long-term damage. Look in your manual you will see this is not recommended. Remember, if you do decide to disconnect the battery, you will need to have your radio code handy in the spring to get your system functioning again.

Cover it.
Even if your car is in a nice heated garage, securely tucked away with the key hidden, I’ve always thought it a good idea to keep my cars covered. This way, you don’t have to worry about anyone or anything bumping into or crawling on or over you nice paint. We recommend to use a thick, padded, indoor Porsche car cover or an outdoor car cover, If you do use a cover make sure it covers your exhaust pipes. If you don’t use a cover, you might want to think of covering your pipes with something (those big 16 oz keg cups work great). The idea behind this is to keep out any rodents that might want to try and build a nest for the winter. You laugh, but I’ve seen it happen to a customer’s car and it can be very frustrating and expensive.

Seal It.
We recommend you don’t storage your vehicle if the weather strips and rubber seals are perished or leaking in water, change the main seals before your put your car away, this will save your interior and carpets

DRIVE IT
This should probably be up at the very top, but I don’t want you to forget. The most important thing you can do prior to putting your Porsche away is to drive it and enjoy as you may not have her back on the road for another few months.

1.Special Tools — In addition to regular sockets/wrenches Non Adjustable Tie Rod End Puller Dull Metal Chisel w/ .5″-.75″ blade width (or big flat head screw driver might work) Silicon Lube Spray BIG adjustable wrench1. Jack front of car up high enough to easily work under it with hammers or large wrenches. Safety brake should be on.

2. Remove both wheels.

3. Turn steering wheel all the way to one side.

4. Go to opposite side and remove cotter pin from castellated nut (castle nut to some) at the top of the tie rod.

5. Get breaker bar and remove castellated nut.

6. Use tie rod end puller to get the tie rod end out of the joint that connects it to the spindle. This is a tapered end and will probably POP out with a loud noise
Do not let the tie rods change their length at any time or you will have some problems later on.

7. Repeat 3-6 for other side of the car.

8. Remove metal dust/rock guard from under the front of car. This plate covers the steering rack.

9. Remove front sway bar. You may or may not have to do this.

10. Remove the old rubber bellows from the steering rack and push it as far out of the way toward the outside of the car as you can. Be careful not to damage the little retaining springs as you will be using these again.

11. There is a large ring with 4 rectangular cuts in it at the joint between tie rod and steering rack. Call it big nut for now. Take your dull chisel and place it in one of those rectangular cutouts and hammer gently. You must make sure that you are trying to force the big nut loose and hammering on the correct side.

12. Big nut should get loose with in reason. Do both sides. You can use the steering wheel or big muscle to move the steering rack such that you can get a better angle on removing the big nuts.

13. Remove the tie rod of your choice by unscrewing it completely from the steering rack. DO NOT change the length.

14. Mark the tie rod as either drivers or passengers (or right or left).

15. Remove and mark other tie rod.

16. Open your turbo kit and remove the plastic covers (one each end) to the turbo tie rod ends.

17. Put Rubber turbo bellows over the turbo rods as this is a pain to do it later (don’t ask how I know). We also should have cleaned the retaining springs with brake cleaner at this point };). You will only need to use one for each side. I think it’s the bigger one, but check as the inner and outer retainer springs are of different sizes.

18. Adjust the length of one turbo rod to the length of one old rod as close as you can. Make sure you mark the turbo rods as to which the left side is and which is right side.

19. The kit we had came with two large spacers, they were to be used as replacements for the space occupied by big nut on the old tie rods.

20. Screw in both turbo rods on their appropriate sides after applying some thread lock.

21. Tighten the tie rods,

22. Put the rubber turbo bellows on. This is where the silicone lube spray comes in handy. Spray the inside end areas of the bellows with a little bit of that silicone stuff and they slip on their stops easily. You should only have one spring retaining ring that you use on the steering rack side. The tie rod side is sufficiently held by a rubber thing on the tie rod side.

23. Replace sway bar if removed.

24. Replace dust/rock guard plate.

25. Use some mid-fine grade sand paper or Emory paper to clean up the hole area on the arm that the tie rod links to. Wash with brake cleaner to remove dust.

26. Put tie rod end into hole at end of arm. Put castellated nut on and tighten to torque in spec book

27. Insert a new cotter pin. These didn’t come with our kit so you should make a hardware store run before you start to get the right pins.

28. Put on wheels.

29. Lower car.

30. Done.

Installing the 911 Short Shift Kit

Following are detailed instructions on installing a Short Shift into a 1978 911SC. They should be applicable for model years 1974 to 86.

Parts Involved:
Things the Short Shift kit includes:
1.Shift lever (longer below the pivot, slightly shorter above it) 2.Metal top plate 3.Rubber buffer plate 4.(2) Springs 5.Spring guide plate 6.Pivot cage 7.Pivot pin

Things you WILL also need:
1. New “crush sleeve” to fit shift knob on new lever

Things you MAY also need:
1.Bushings a.Shift lever ball end bushing b.Shift rod front pivot bushing c.Bushings for shift coupler 2.Shift knob
Note: Shift coupler can be easily inspected before you order anything. You may want to order the other bushings in case you find out the old bushings are bad once you have the shift tower apart.

Tools needed:
5mm, 6mm allen wrenches (for shift tower bolts)
10mm wrench (for shift tower top plate nuts)
22mm socket (for late-style shift tower locknut)
(2) 13mm wrenches (to adjust shift coupler, can also use 13mm wrench and a low profile 13mm socket)
Needle-nose pliers (for lockrings)
Grease (for everything)

Beer comes in handy too, particularly in the adjustment phase.

Step-by-step instructions:
1. Remove center console if you have one. 4 screws around the perimeter of the back cover piece (where it joins the main console piece), pull off cover piece, then 2 screws holding down the back of the console and one (under the carpet) holding down the front. The front screw can be tricky because the parking brake handle will be in the way.

2. Remove old shift knob. If this looks to be difficult you might be wise to order a new one to keep handy & return if you don’t need it. You will need a new “crush sleeve” (interference fit sleeve) either way since you’ll probably mangle the old one getting the knob off.
You can probably avoid the breaking of the shift knob by waiting until after step 13, given that you have a vice in which to hold the old lever whilst you tap the knob gently off. You could also use a gear puller with a bit of wood or something under the center “push” part to prevent damage to the knob, but likely a soft faced hammer or a bit of wood used as a buffer will do the trick.

3. Remove shifter boot.
4. The “late-style” (don’t know exactly how late) shift tower has a locknut and allen bolt that position the forward end of the longitudinal pivot axis. If you have this type of tower, use a 22mm socket to loosen the locknut BEFORE you remove the tower from the car. I had to reinstall my (empty) shift tower just to get enough leverage to crack the nut loose.

5. Apply the parking brake and shift into neutral. This will allow you to pivot the shift rod side-to-side as needed to reinstall the shifter later.

6. Remove the 3 big Allen-head screws (6mm wrench) that hold the shift tower to the car – two on the front side of the plate, one on the back. At this point the tower should be loose, though it won’t come off yet since it’s still attached to the bracket that holds the front bushing for the shift rod.

7. Remove the 2 smaller Allen-head screws (5mm wrench) that hold this bracket to the shift tower.

8. At this point you should be able to lift the tower and shifter free of the shift rod. The end of the shift lever is press-fit inside a rubber bushing that fits inside a cup on the shift rod. You may need to tug a bit, but the bushing should pop out eventually.

9. Take the shift tower to a workbench to work on it, since it’s got some small pieces you don’t want to lose.

10. Remove and save the two 10mm nuts and lock washers that hold the plate to the top of the shift tower. There are 2 strong springs inside this plate, on the left (1st/2nd gear) side. If you have a vice or large C-clamps, you might want to clamp the plate before you remove the nuts. If not, loosen the nuts first and then maintain pressure on the plate as you remove them by hand. This keeps the assembly from “exploding” – although you won’t need to keep the springs anyway so it’s no great loss if they wander off.

11. Remove the top plate, springs, the rubber buffer pad (shaped the same as the plate & directly beneath it), and the piece the springs run on, and set them aside. The new kit has replacements for all of these.

12. Looking down inside what’s left of the shift tower, you’ll see the pivot cage that attaches the shift lever to the tower. This cage has a pin running laterally (side-to-side) on which the shift lever pivots for fore-and-aft movement (i.e. 1 to 2, 3 to 4), while the cage itself can tilt relative to the tower to give side-to-side lever movement. Remove AND SAVE the two lockrings (C-rings) that hold the lateral axis (side-to-side-running) pivot pin in place, one on either side of the cage. Remove this pivot pin and set it aside.

13. Pull the shift lever free of the pivot cage.

14. Remove the pivot cage from the shift tower. On the late-style tower, you unthread the allen bolt that forms the front longitudinal (fore-and-aft running) pivot, then press out the interference-fit piece for the rear pivot. I suspect an early tower would just have the interference-fit pieces on both ends. To press out the pivot, I slid a breaker bar through the pivot cage, placed its flat edge against the pivot, then grabbed both ends and squeezed against the top and bottom ends of the shift tower. This just pushes the pivot back enough that you can get the cage out.

15. Set aside the pivot cage. Keep the allen bolt and/or pivot piece(s) and the washer(s).

16. Clean up the bits you’ll be reusing: lock rings, cage pivot piece(s), cage pivot washer(s), shift tower, 10mm nuts and lock washers.

17. Cut the bottom end off the bag that the shift lever’s in. Try to leave this bag over the top end of the shift lever until you have installed it in the tower; this reduces the chances of scratching the paint.

18. Check the fit of the new shift lever in the new pivot cage. I had to bend the cage walls out a bit and file the edges a little to get it to fit.

19. Grease the pivot end of the shift lever and the pivot pin, then assemble the lever to the pivot cage and replace the lock rings. With the shift lever positioned so it bends toward you, the pivot pin should extend out of the left side of the cage so it can engage the spring guide plate once the pivot is installed in the tower. A good grease for this is Dow 111 silicone, non staining and won’t drip off in hot weather, plus it doesn’t smell.

20. Grease the cage’s fore and aft pivot points (holes) and install the cage and lever into the tower. If you have the late-style tower, replace the allen bolt and lock ring and adjust so the pivot cage has no fore-and-aft play. For those who do not have the adjustable pivot, it is well worth getting an old housing or even a new one if you can justify the expense. The housing was changed in 1977 so all SC’s have it. On adjustment, one trick is to not tighten the lock nut too tightly, but rather leave it snug until you find the right tension for you. BTW, it never has to be too tight, as it doesn’t get much stress.

21. Grease and install: new spring plate, new springs, rubber buffer plate, metal top plate, 10mm lock washers and nuts. A vice or an extra set of hands would be helpful in mounting the metal top plate, since you need to compress the springs while lining the plate up to (a) the studs for the 10mm nuts and (b) the two tabs of the metal plate on which the springs run. It can be done solo, but it’s not particularly fun and you’ll need to curse a bit.

22. Clean and grease the inside of the shift lever bushing (if you’re reusing it) and press it onto the ball end of the shift lever.

23. Return the tower to the car. Locate the bracket that holds the bushing in which the front end of the shift rod pivots. Clean and re-grease the shift rod where it runs in this bushing. Position the bracket so its tab (with the threaded holes) sits ABOVE the tunnel. The big, non-threaded hole should line up with the threaded hole in the tunnel (where the big Allen bolt goes)

24. Clean and re-grease the cup at the front of the shift rod that the shifter bushing fits into.

25. Lower the tower into place and fit the shift rod bushing into the cup. This takes some finesse and luck. It seems to work best with the shift rod held vertical. If you have small, long fingers, you can reach in through the access hole in the side of the tower to help fit the bushing into the cup. It should slide easily to the bottom.

26. Line up the holes that mount the shift rod bracket to the plate and reinstall these bolts.

27. Line up the holes that mount the plate to the tunnel and reinstall these bolts. Make sure that you have the shift lever in the cup at this point.

28. Reinstall the shift boot and knob, using a new “crush ring” for the knob.

29. See if you can get into any gears. If you can’t, don’t despair, we still have to adjust the shift linkage. But, it’s helpful to figure out how “close” you are. Return to neutral.

30. The cover for the shift linkage is on the tunnel just forward of the rear “seats.” Pull up the carpet, remove 4 screws and take off the cover.

31. There should be a rubber boot covering the shift linkage.

32. Loosen the clamp holding the shift rod to the coupling.

33. The Haynes manual recommends the following procedure for adjusting the linkage:
a. Pivot the coupler so it’s in the 1/2 plane. Facing the rear of the car, this is the counter-clockwise limit. b. Position the shift lever against the left-hand stop and move it so the lower part is vertical. c. Tighten the clamp and check the adjustment.

34. You may need to fine-tune this adjustment a bit to easily get into all the gears. Once you can see the coupler move as you move the lever, it should be obvious what you need to do.

35. As a final check, shift into 5th gear and make sure there is some fore-and-aft play in the coupler and linkage. There won’t be any play in 1st or 3rd; this is normal.
You must be able to get into reverse without grinding, and when you have selected 5th, you should be able to move the coupler between the rear seats slightly, otherwise things are too tight. Not much, but just a bit of rotational “wiggle” is necessary.

34. Button it up and go for a test drive.

To buy this product Click Here

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Early Heat Exchanger Retrofit.

The car used for this upgrade is a 1982 911SC. This upgrade is one of the best bolt on improvements that can be done to 911’s 1974-89 2.7L / 3.0L and 3.2L.

The results of upgrade.
Increase in horsepower. There have been claims of anywhere from 10-30 horsepower. There is definitely an increase especially in the higher RPMs. A rough guesstimate would be teens to twenty. Flatter torque curve. The torque begins earlier, and is smoothed out throughout the RPM range. The SC lost some of the head jerking mid-range torqueiness, but there is now a smoother pull through all RPM The clutch chatter went away. Increased torque and also the car no longer backfires, and it also does not smoke.

Part that you need: Either pre-1974 Heat Exchangers or early design Heat Exchangers made by Dansk, 2 oil lines. One has a rubber section, the other is all metal A 2-in muffler and muffler straps 2 neoprene heater hoses (10″ or 12″) 6 8mm barrel nuts 6 12mm locking hex nuts 6 exhaust gaskets (I used the asbestos with metal ring type, but the copper with asbestos sandwiched is supposed to be just as good if not better) 2 copper muffler gaskets.

You can buy this set by clicking here

Tools that you need: Metric Socket Set with extensions Metric Hex Socket Set Car jack Jack stands Flat screwdriver ¼” Drive extension 13mm universal joint socket – For these universal sockets get the ones that are already u-jointed not a socket attached to a u-joint. THIS WILL NOT WORK – Also for these sockets, get ones that are ¼” drive the small size of the socket itself helps with tight spaces 12mm universal joint socket 13mm and 12mm Crows foot sockets 8mm allen wrench Anti-seize Penetrating oil LARGE adjustable wrench (Channel-Lock) – Or Porsche oil line wrenches – Needs to be 32mm Crescent wrench – Up to 300mm New oil Oil catch pan (i.e. turkey roasting pans) 12 and 13mm open end wrenches Propane torch Oxygen-MAAP gas torch Water squirt bottle Latex gloves. Towels Naval Jelly Rust Remover and wire brush – If you are restoring old Heat Exchangers LOTS OF PATIENCE
Preparation.
So to start engage parking brake, chock front wheels , lift car and place on jack stands.. Place jack stands under rear torsion bar covers with a piece of carpet or padding to prevent damage.. MAKE SURE IT IS SECURE BEFORE SLIDING YOUR HEAD UNDER 2700 POUNDS OF METAL. Take off both rear wheels. Try to soak all nuts and bolts: muffler strap allen nuts (2); pre-muffler nuts (3); heat exchangers (6); heads-heat exchangers (6 barrel, 6 hex) with plenty of penetrating oil. Do this 3 or 4 times a day for a week if possible. It may be good to soak the two oil lines coming out of the thermostat towards the back of the car. Of these two, follow the one which is behind the other till you get to another junction of oil lines, and you may want to use penetrating oil here too.

Disassembly
Loosen pre-muffler nuts (13mm). Then loosen muffler strap allen nuts). Remove muffler. Remove six nuts holding pre-muffler to the driver side (DS) heat exchanger (HE) and the cross over pipes from the passenger side (PS) HE (13mm). You may want to use heat. Either the propane or the Oxy-Maap torch. There are a few that are in tight spaces so use the crow foot, u-joint or open end wrenches. You will have to counter hold one side. First turn the bolt till you hear the rust squeak (this will be important later) then counter hold and break the rust between the nut and the bolt.. Now remove your pre-muffler.
While doing this disassembly you should be spraying penetrating oil on the heads-heat exchanger nuts.
If you want you can disassemble the crossover pipes from the PS HE,

Removal of the Heat Exchangers.
There are some horror stories about the exhaust studs breaking. And this is what you want to avoid. Keep telling yourself you will be patient. The advice has been to heat/cool the nuts about four times before any attempts of removal. I would stress this for those of you living in rust inducing areas. I on the other hand gave each nut a very light try. And 2 hex nuts came off. Saved me a little time. Then I heated/cooled then tried the nut lightly (a bit harder then before). And if it was unsuccessful I tried again. Also remember to try to tighten before loosening. The key is to either feel the nut turn when tightening, or to hear the rust squeak. Those are the ONLY 2 situations when you should attempt to remove the nut. If you do not feel either you must continue the heat/cool cycle. Also after loosening the nut, spray some penetrating lube as you loosen the nut, thus lubricating the stud. You will notice the nuts are in extremely tight spaces and you will need to use a combination of the socket extensions, u-jointed 13mm socket, 13mm crow foot, 13mm open ended wrench to get to the nuts. On some, the u-joint would work well until the nut backs down and makes the space tighter, then I would have to switch to the crow foot as the nut came down. Make sure the socket or wrench is seated completely. Because you are working at angles, you DO NOT want to round the nut. Or else you will be in a very sorry position. For the barrel allen nuts, I used a 8mm T-handle allen wrench. Insert it through the holes in the HE’s and again make sure they are fully seated or you risk rounding the nut! The T-handle gave me 2 places to place my hands so I did not risk pulling with the allen at an angle that could happen when loosening with a socket wrench. Also I think this 2 handed method gives a more sensitive touch when trying to tighten nuts to test for loosened rust. Disconnect the heater hoses in the front, and back of the heat exchangers. I forgot to and they ripped as I undid the last nut on the heat exchangers. My paper ones on the front had seen better days so I replaced both with neoprene hoses. The black ones with the wire embedded in the outer cover is convenient because you can trim the length of the hoses without seeing it unravel and make a mess. On the passenger side back, there is a long tube of flexible hose, connected to an elbow, then to the heat exchanger. Take off the elbow and put aside, but keep the flexible hose. On the driver’s side, there is a smaller length of tube, then an elbow. Take off both the elbow and the tube, set aside the elbow, and we will have to make modifications to this length of hose. It is very
stiff aluminium tubing.

To take off the nuts you will need the oxygen-MAPP gas torch. A propane torch will not get the nuts hot enough, no longer you heat…trust me I tried. So heat each nut till bright red. I even turned off my work light, and heated the nuts, and would check by removing the torch for a second to see if the nut was indeed glowing. For some nuts it will be impossible but try to heat all around the nut perpendicular to the exhaust stud, heating just the nut. Once it is bright red, give it a good long squirt with water. Watch out, the dripping water is HOT. As well as all metal parts within 6 inches of the nut. My engine was very oily and I was worried that I would start some fires…and I did. But they were very small, and I could just let it burn or blow them out. But it may be prudent to have an extinguisher on hand. The heat method is essential, and getting them cherry red is also essential. Remember patience. Nuts I could not get off with 15 minutes of propane came off with the oxygen-MAPP gas torch. Some nuts needed 1 cycle, others needed 3. So for each nut tighten and listen for the squeak. For some nuts I used more force then I was comfortable, in fear of breaking the studs, but if you heated multiple times, there is nothing more you can do. The stud will either break or the nut will give. Don’t use full force till heating at least 4 times. After that just give it a go and hope for the best. For some nuts if there was no squeak I just semi-lightly tightened and loosened trying to “rock” the nut back and forth. And then continued the heat cycle. Some people suggest rapping the nut to help loosen the rust. But I did not in fear of breaking the stud. If a nut is stubborn, spray penetrating oil on it and move to another. Do not dwell on one or you will break it. Also when you get to the last couple on one HE, support the HE with a jack (padded with a 2´4 or a paperback book). This will keep from all the force being on one nut. And save the HE falling on your face. If you were lucky like me none broke and you sigh a HUGE sigh of relief. But for those of you in the rusty regions of the world, breaking one or two is inevitable. Check the forum for suggestions. Some suggest welding on a nut and turning the stud out. Or you can use the 2 nut method. Thread two nuts on, and tighten one onto the other, thus locking them and then turn the stud out. You can drill them out. Some members even had special jigs made to drill out the offending stud. And others used Snap-On tools that assist removing broken studs. I have no experience with this, so check with the BBS.

Take a break. The worst is over…but the second worst part is next. (oh and reward yourself by starting up the engine with no exhaust system whatsoever! The sound is incredible, especially if you rev it. And if you look under the car, you will see flames shooting out too…)
This maybe a good time to check for oil leaks in the oil cooler (fixed by 3 simple o-rings) and also to clean off the oil crud that has built up for years. I used 3 cans of brake cleaner and a wire brush and clean off an inch think layer of crud. This improved my shifting because it cleared up some crud from linkages and moving parts near the clutch helper spring.

Oil Lines.
Okay, now it is time to tackle the oil lines. The oil line in question begins at the oil thermostat. If you remove the passenger rear wheel, you will see the thermostat and 2 oils lines. You will have to remove the on in front of the other, because the one we are interested in is the one in back. This oil line goes towards the rear of the car, turns into a flexible section, bends and follows the rear of the engine crossing over to the drivers side, then turns to the front and plugs into the crankcase on the driver’s side of the engine. After the flexible section it is bolted to the engine for support, as well as in the wheel well, supporting both oil line coming out of the thermostat. The new oil line is made up of one piece with a flexible section that will attach to the thermostat, then it will connect to an all metal oil line, cross over to the driver’s side on the FRONT of the engine, and then plug into the crankcase.

First thing is to drain the oil. Because my car was on jacks getting penetrating oil I could not warm the engine, but it was still okay. Just drain at both the oil tank and the sump cover. Then replace the plugs because the oil will keep dripping out while you work on the oil lines.

If you check the there are many horror stories at the thermostat too. Because the thermostat is aluminium and the oil lines are steel, if the nut is seized on, the threads on the thermostat are prone to breaking off with the oil line. Some people have just used a cutting wheel to cut through the nut and then break it off, since it is just a compression fitting. Check the bulletin board for more detailed procedure. The Bentley Manual says to heat the nuts which I did with both propane and the oxygen-MAAP gas torch. But in the end I just used brute strength. The nuts are 32mm, so I used a large pair of channel lock pliers. I actually braced the thermostat with my toes on the lines coming out from the bottom of the thermostat, and twisted. Careful, I smashed my finger against the inside fender but both came off, no breakage.

If you plan never to use the oil lines again, the cracking the nut way may be the safest, but I have California emission laws to worry about. Also it is a good idea to have a catch pan here because of residual oil in the lines. But the jack stand may get in the way. So it may be good to put some plastic and newspaper under the passenger rear jack stand way in the beginning of the project. Also disconnect the oil support bracket in the wheel well. Save the rubber because you do not want the support to rub the oil lines and crack them. Once you get both nuts off follow the rear to the rear of the engine and take off the support nut. You can also disconnect the first piece from the second by using the channel lock pliers and counter holding the nut, but I left it in one piece. I then followed the oil line to the side of the crankcase and removed it there. Again have a catch pan ready. Now the oil line if off. You may want to drain it, and plug the ends before anything contaminates it. Now just plug in the first new oil line, with the flexible section. Bend that down and you will see a support bracket and a hole in the front of the crankcase to support the oil line. Then connect the all metal oil line, bring it around to the driver’s side and then connect there. Voila…you are done, fill it back up with oil and start is up again and listen to the flat six!
(Note: found some leaks in the junctions of these oil lines @ 2 weeks post-op, be sure to tighten well)

HEATER HOSES
If you are keeping your heating system, you should check conditions of your forward hoses (going into the cabin) and change if necessary. On one of the side (not sure which since it has been a while) the heat exchanger flange is very close to the inlet into the cabin, and the hose will need to be cut or else it will be crushed if you try to use the full length. I suggest trial fitting the hoses, and then attaching them at the cabin inlets end first, and only. Then move to the back of the car, to the hoses coming from the engine bay. On the passenger side you do not need to make any modifications just take the elbows used for the stock HE’s off from both diver’s and passenger’s side. Attach the hose to the end of the new HE and let it dangle. On the driver’s side you will have to remove the silver hose from the engine compartment and using a hacksaw cut it in half. Eyeball the length by putting the HE in place. It will be a tight bend for the hose but it can be done. So at this point you have 2 hoses hanging at the front of the car, and two HE’s hanging off their respective rear hoses.

INSTALLATION OF HEAT EXCHANGERS
Working on either side, put the gaskets on the head studs. Some people have used peanut butter to hold it in place; others curve the gasket to keep them in place. I curved the gaskets and they still fell, just angle them so they do not fall off, it is frustrating to keep them all on. The fit the HE into place making sure the gaskets are in place. Do not use gasket sealer, it just creates a mess by turning into a hard irremovable mess. I suggest you start from the middle barrel nut to hold the HE. Just put it on with a couple of turns to hold it in place. Now is a good time to place or attach the front heater hose to the HE. If you tighten all the way the HE all the way up there may not be enough clearance between the two to get the hose on the HE. Then start putting on the other 2 barrel nuts and locking nuts. I would put the “spacer” hex nut on the stud (not screwed on because the nut should be bigger then the stud) and hope the threads hold that in place. Then stack the appropriate nut with a locking washer, with some antiseize goop in between. Then screw the nut on. Use the same method for the barrel nuts. There may be some resistance for the HE to fit flush to the heads and that maybe the aluminium heater hoses at the back of the HE’s. Either they were cut too long or short, but I did have to force my HEs some to get the aluminium hose to bend appropriately. Tighten the best you can. Be sure to use a lot of antiseize. You remember how hard it was to get the nuts off. Torque the ones you can (18 ft-lbs) there will be a couple locking nuts on the passenger side that are impossible to torque, but do the best you can.

Double check all the connections, from the heater hoses to the cabin, the HE to heads, and the heater hoses to the engine compartment.

Expandable Oil Return Tube Kits
The principle point of failure are the two seals on each end. After many years of service, the seals get old, and begin to leak. The good news is that there is a relatively easy fix for these leaking tubes. Unlike the 914 oil return tubes, there are no pushrods running through them. To replace the oil return tubes with factory original ones, you need to take off the heads. However, there are replacement expandable tubes that will allow you to replace a tube without even taking off the valve cover. This technical article will detail the process of removing the old tube and installing a new expandable tube.

The first step in beginning the replacement process is to make sure you’ve identified exactly where the leak is coming from. You would hate to do this job, and then figure out that the oil is coming from somewhere else. Before you begin, take your car to a self-serve car wash that allows you to wash your engine. Drive the car back to your garage and immediately look underneath. You should be able to figure out exactly where all the oil is coming from. If it is coming from the oil return tube, then there will be oil on the ground right below the tube.
The next step is to empty the oil from the car. You don’t absolutely need to empty the oil, but it will make the job a little bit neater. When you remove the oil return tube, a small stream of oil will run out, so make sure that you have a drip pan to catch the oil.

Now, get the expandable oil return tube ready. Place the seals on both ends of the tube, lubricating them by dipping them in some fresh motor oil. Make sure that when you place the tube down, you place it on a clean cloth – you don’t want to introduce any debris into your motor. After you have the two seals on the ends of the tube, place the two smaller seals on the inside of the push tube. These two seals prevent the tube from leaking within itself. You should lubricate these two seals as well. The tube should now resemble. Now, push on the little circlip that comes with the tube.

This rather large clip prevents the tube from coming apart when installed in your car. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to make sure that you put the clip on without damaging both the clip or the tube. Now, insert the smaller tube into the larger one. It should slide in quite easily. Note that if you are not careful while installing the tube, you can bend it, and then it will be almost impossible to expand when you’re underneath the car. The assembled tube should now resemble.

Now, you need to remove the old tube. On some cars, you may need to remove the heat exchangers or headers to gain access to particular oil return tube. Be careful when pulling the heat exchangers off of the heads as you don’t want to accidentally remove the head studs. The best method for removing the oil return tube is to just take a pair of vice grips and crush the tube until it’s bent. Then twist the tube with the vice grips until the tube comes out of one end. If the seals are truly old, then the tube should come out easily. Once you get the tube out, if you didn’t empty the oil out of the engine, it will begin to flow a little. Make sure that you have a drip pan ready.

Insertion of the expandable tube is straightforward, although not too easy. Begin by placing one end of the tube into either the main engine case or the port nearest to the heads. Depending upon your leverage, or your particular car, you will have to figure out which end is the best to start with. Make sure that you place the smaller end of the tube nearest to the heads. (the larger of the two tubes should go into the heads). The reasoning behind this is that if the tubes are ever going to leak, they will probably leak worse when the engine is warm and the oil is hot and very thin. When the engine is running, the oil will be flowing from the
heads to the main engine case. By placing the smaller tube within the bigger one, the oil flow will not press up against the seals. It’s not a very big deal as to which way it goes in, but it may make a difference many years down the road when the seals begin to deteriorate.

After you have one side of the tube inserted into the case, then you need to expand the tube to reach the other side. There are a few ways of doing this, and none of them work too well. I would suggest holding one end of the tube lightly with a set of vice-grips, while pushing against one end of the tube with a screwdriver.

Be careful while expanding the tube. If you damage it, then it will be almost impossible to expand the tube under the car. After you have the tube expanded and the seals are firmly mounted on both ends, then slide the circlip down until it reaches it’s groove, securing it under the car. Use the needle-nose pliers again to avoid damaging the tube. After you have installed the tube, check to make sure that everything is seated correctly.

There should, of course, be no oil leaking out of the tube. After the tube is installed, then reinstall your heat exchangers or headers if you had to remove them to gain access. Use new copper exhaust gaskets between the heads and the pipes. Reinstall your muffler if you had to remove it too, using this opportunity to install new gaskets as well.

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Porsche 911 engines need a steady supply of fuel at the correct pressure for good performance. If the hum from your fuel pump is getting louder, it may be a sign of imminent failure. When you order your new fuel pump, be sure to get two new copper sealing rings. 

 

The first step in doing any work where the fuel system will be opened is to position the car away from any possible sources of ignition, such as a gas water heater, because you are likely to spill some fuel. Next, place the front of the car up on jack stands. You need some room to work under the car, so the car should be near the maximum height of the jack stands.

The fuel pump is located above the splash panel between the front wheels. To remove the splash panel, take off the two 17mm nuts, and the two 8mm allen-head bolts. This panel is a bit heavier than it looks, so be sure to support it when you take off the fasteners.

To remove the fuel pump, disconnect the two electrical wires, taking note of which is positive and which is negative. Then unscrew the 19mm cap nut that holds the fuel outlet line (you may need to counterhold this fastener with a 15mm wrench). Loosen the hose clamp holding the fuel pump, and you are ready to take off the pump. Loosen the clamp holding the fuel input line, remove the pump, and replace it with the new pump. You will need to work quickly during this part of the procedure to prevent

spilling a lot of fuel Use two new copper sealing rings, one on each side of the banjo fitting, when replacing the fuel outlet line. Reattach the wiring, making sure that the positive and negative wires are correct. Tighten the fuel inlet line, and replace the sponge piece next to the fuel pump, which is a sound deadener. Replace the splash pan, and you are done.